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Smoking and changing fashions have since the 1920s influenced the production and display of modern womanhood. Female Modernity has been often the subject of re-appropriation by media and dominant norms. However, even if this era has been faced with ambivalence, it remains inextricably bound with explicit social demands, set forth as early as the 1920s.


The project explores the visual implications of feminine Modernity and its relation to cigarette smoking and fashion. Textile design is the chosen artistic medium to express ideas on female representations and its historical underpinnings. Adopting the vocabulary of modernism, the work examines notions of female visuality through the language of fabrics.


Panel appropriates the motif of a Lucky Strike cigarette pack, as a reference to its association with design and female smokers as early as the 1920s. Through the process of serial repetition and superimposition of folded cigarette packs an abstract geometric pattern is composed. This becomes the central motif for the production of a series of textiles by means of silkscreen techniques. Inspired by Sonia Delaunay’s understanding of fabrics as multi-purpose and adaptable, the work represents a stage in the production process rather than a fixed object. Envisioned as a pattern for multiple reproduction in a series of contexts, it is presented here in the form of a female scarf.


BAT Art Prize 2012





silkscreen on cotton
64 x 82 cm